Category: cycle touring

Big Slackwater

Gorgeous view at Big SlackwaterIt’s a good day to be a C&O junkie… the Park Service has finally reopened the Big Slackwater portion of the trail, meaning we’re *this close* to having the entire trail reopened from Georgetown to Cumberland with nary a detour in sight. There’s the little matter of the much newer detour by Great Falls to dispense of, but that might be done soon.

In any event, riding this portion of the trail was of great consequence to me personally, because it was the only piece of the trail I had yet to ride… of course I’ve ridden the detour many times. It seems to have been worth the wait… it’s a 5 mile (ish) stretch that includes the formerly impassable portions that have now been converted into gorgeous concrete roadways mere feet from the Potomac. Figure the flooding issues will always be issues, but these structures don’t look like they’ll be too subject to the whims of the river.* Figure it chops off about 30-40 minutes of the ride compared to the former detour, which is nice because that’s 30-40 minutes closer to beer o’clock at the cabin on the second day of the ride from DC…

All in all, my favorite part of the trail. Good job NPS!

*Be sure to remind me with headline links to “Massive flooding closes C&O trail again” later this winter. Jinx.

Continental Divide

Top of the Allegheny's

Last week, I wrote about riding the GAP to the MD/PA state line. Sunday, I rode with MJ for the first time since our west coast adventures and made the trail all the way to the eastern continental divide. At a length of 50 miles round tripping from Cumberland, this was a fairly vigorous ride, but oddly easy considering the accurate, but misleading, elevation chart.

The ride confirms that the 135 miles from Cumberland to Pittsburgh is an “easy” 2 day trip, with a likely overnight in Ohiopyle State Park, or maybe a leave-no-trace wild camp if it’s appropriate (although probably not technically allowed). Unfortunately as the fall weather makes this trip beyond tempting, my fall schedule is tricky to coordinate enough consecutive days to make it happen. Since one of the tunnels closes November 1st, it might be that this section of the trail may be the only part I can do until next spring…

Riding the GAP

Sunday was a gloriously perfect day for a ride, so I drove about an hour west of my cabin to Cumberland, MD to check out the Great Allegheny Passage, a 130-ish mile trail linking up the end of the C&O with Pittsburgh. I’ve read some great things about the trail, mainly its surface. Sadly, I didn’t have the time to carve out a multi-day trek, but I got a good sense of things in my 41 mile round trip.

  • The surface is nice, but not as solid as I thought it would be. The crushed limestone wasn’t compacted in several spots, leaving a pretty soft slide when hit wrong. The portion I was riding had a slight incline to it, so on the descent things can get a bit dicey if you’re not paying attention.
  • Come fall, the vistas will be amazing… serious foliage potential. One ridgeline on the climb features a line of turbines… not a natural feature at all, but I’ve always thought they stand as a nice juxtaposition of technology amongst the wilderness.
  • The climb is not difficult at all, but it is about 25 miles long. By mile 20 I definitely felt it, but then again I never really took a real break to speak of. About MM 25, you hit the Eastern Continental Divide, so the rest of the ride turns into a gentle descent as you roll west. Since the climb goes pretty fast (and the descent even faster), I figure it’s reasonable to do the 130+ miles in 2 days (and therefore, the Pittsburgh to DC run in 5).
  • The train was cool, but the smog that comes out of that stack is no good for the lungs. The tunnels were nice and big for this claustrophobe, thank you very much.
  • Loved the Mason-Dixon line setup at the PA/MD border. I chose that as my turnaround point rather than tempt myself with what lay beyond the Continental Divide…
  • Oh, and the Bills won while I was riding. Like Cube said, it was a good day

Tour de Pacific: some final thoughts

What a great adventure. Two weeks on a bike, camping the whole way… it seems like it went by so quickly.

  1. A big thanks to MJ for being my partner in crime for the time we were together. We sort of stumbled upon cycle touring around the same time, and he’s become a great friend to tour with. More to come for sure.*
  2. I like cycling in temperatures below 80, and colder if possible. I certainly can (and do) rock rides in the 90s, but throw in some hills and direct sunlight, and my ability to hit 50-70 mile days drops a lot.
  3. I miss Oregon, but this trip made me realize more than ever that there are parts that I prefer over others.
  4. I cannot forsee joining a large group ride again. When we found ourselves in small packs of other riders, I got uncomfortable… almost claustrophobic. It’s hard to feel claustrophobic on a bike in the great outdoors, and yet it happened.
  5. Leaving the Hennessey Hammock behind was the smartest thing I did. I like it, but not for long tours. The luxury of my bigger-than-I-need tent made a big difference for very little added weight and bulk.
  6. Slugs are cool.
  7. So are bunnies.
  8. Beer is a great reward at the end of the day, and a neutral to bad idea in the middle of a riding day.
  9. This still does not suck ———————————>
  10. The Goblin is a great bike, and it will come in handy for my next western adventure.
  11. I think this biking thing is going to stick… there are a lot of older dudes that I ran into, and I can’t forsee stopping.
  12. Hills no longer scare me… the uphills are just the price I pay for the joy of bombing downhill at 30+ mph…
  13. I missed my girl and my dog.
  14. San Francisco will always have a hold on me in a way I cannot articulate.

In the immortal words of Forrest Gump, “that’s about it.” Wait, was that Bubba? Whatever…

—-

*I got a text from MJ today… he was in Fairfax, CA alive and well. He agreed that stars would have had to align just right in order to make it to SF in time for my flight.

Day 13: Hello SF… We meet again…

A quick 5 mile ride… An hour of breaking down, boxing, driving and dropping off… The Goblin is on its way back to its resting spot in PDX after a valiant several hundred miles hauling me and 40 lbs of gear to the end of the Avenue of the Giants and back to Eureka.

The drive was odd… Once again I covered the stretch between Eureka and the redwoods albeit a bit faster. I also retraced the Climate Ride route up to the base of Leggett Hill, which was a bit bittersweet… I hope to get back and really kick the hell out of it.

No word yet from MJ but he probably won’t be in cell range til tonight. Looking forward to hearing about the hot climb through Garberville – it was 89 at 11:30am, so I’m guessing it was similarly hot for him.

I’m meeting up with Bay Area friends tonight… A nice reward for a busy 13 days. I’m sure I’ll have a few closing thoughts on the tour after I sit a bit without a bike nearby… Which feels super odd right now.

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Day 12: Hello I must be going

After a 35 mile ride to Fortuna (felt odd going north) I’m back at Eel River Brewing Company for a lunch stop. Counting Crows’ Long December is playing, which is one of those perfectly melancholy tunes for the last real riding day of my tour. The weather is back to normal, which means a stiff wind from the north… You know, the tailwind I was supposed to have the whole way down. Oh well.

I have some errands in Eureka, including swinging by Henderson Bikes to lay claim to a bike box to ship the Goblin back to the home of yesterday’s pine cone contest winner, Mr. Kevin Mooney.* After that it’s to the KOA to pay an absurd amount for a loud, highway side campsite. After paying five bucks a night to sleep in the redwoods, this seems balancing but at the same time utterly unfair.

Upside is I just saw the brewpub cat I first met at last year’s Climate Ride… Balancing, but good.

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Days 10-11: I’ll take the zero

In contrast to the go go go of the past 9 days, the last two have been decidedly more contemplative and relaxing. Spending time amongst the trees avoiding decisions other than “what to read next” has been particularly great. I wish I could bottle the aroma of this magnificent forest and pump it into every corner of every place I’ll ever inhabit… But that might be unreasonable.

Day 9 featured a special birthday celebration for Smokey Bear. The slides suggested he was both 68 and 67, so I’m thinking there may be more than container recycling in California State Parks if youknowwhatimean…

(drum fill)

Thank you I’ll be here all night.

The other aspect of the bday bash was a big old fashioned sing along and a campfire started with lighter fluid. The fire was curiously out of control for a fete honoring America’s most anti-fire mammal, and the singing of small children drove me away at great pace… prior to the cake, to my great chagrin. I dislike the sounds of children singing that much… No I’m not proud of that.

Day 11 found me dislodged from Burlington campground thanks to the two day limit. Since I wanted to get on my bike again, and I was totally out of food anyways, I rolled into Myers Flat for a resupply on the way to the next campground down the road. This one is a lot more secluded and features an enormous sequoia underneath which I’m currently tapping this post. I’m drying a few things on a bungee line I set up, and they’re lazily swaying in the summer breeze without a care in the world.

55 miles tomorrow puts me at the formerly maligned Eureka KOA. It’s north of town but puts me within a few miles of the Hertz, the bike shop, and the UPS Store that are going to combine for a busy Tuesday morning before my drive to SF. Hard to believe the end to this adventure is in sight…

MJ Tip of the Day
Since the poor bastard had to ride in 99 degree heat til he climbed Leggett to the coast, I’ll repeat his usual… “I’ll take rain and cold any day over direct sun and heat!” A true Oregonian even if he’s never been one…

PS If anyone can come up with the 80s era reference for the title of this post… I’ll send you a pine cone from here. Good luck. Offer ends Monday at 6am PT 😉

Offer closed: of course my brother guessed Eddie Murphy with the correct quote within 37 seconds… Delirious, about 10 minutes in.

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Day 9: Lessons in time-space management

One thing I’ve learned is to plan contingencies for the unexpected: bad weather, mechanical delays, injuries… You just need to have time to cover for them.

On the morning of Day 9, I realized I had zero margin for error to get to San Francisco, including a crazy 40 mile early morning ride the day of my flight back. It’s possible… I could have pushed, but I also knew that south of the redwoods (about 60 miles from Eureka), cell phones stop working for hundreds of miles, wifi is barely there, and my ability to juggle any one of a tour’s possible delays became near impossible.

So, I made the tough decision to pull the chord on the original plan… I’ll now slow way down and tour the Avenue of the Giants and Redwood State Park for a few days, then bike north to Eureka to ship the Goblin back to Portland, and then rent a car to drive to SF. I am doing this all Tuesday so I can get a chance to lift a glass with some Bay Area friends.

I look at my map and realize this has been an amazing adventure, and in some ways getting the chance to slow down and savor a 60 mile area for a few days is downright luxurious. It’s all just a little different than planned, but that’s life.

MJ is pushing on. With no deadlines of his own, he is still planning on heading to the Mexican border with family and friend stops in San Francisco and the L.A. area. It’s been a great trip and I know it’ll be odd to finish things without the mysterious one… but we’ll cycle together again.

A few highlights:

– MJ got his second flat within 2 days. This reinforced the wisdom of my decision… he’s had 2 flats in 3500 miles on this trip and they’ve clustered here. The road detritus in CA includes the sharp wires from radial tires, and they get through our Schwalbe Marathon tires that can stand up to nearly everything else.

– While flat repairs took place, I picked wild blackberries. I haven’t done that since I was a kid and it felt oddly centering. I might be doing more of that this weekend.

– Our campground is amongst enormous sequoias along the famed Avenue of the giants. It’s home for a few days… Not bad!

MJ Tip of the Day
F*ck it, we’ll do it live!

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Day 8: We kick some ass, MJ gets a flat and we dine with the viola player from Titanic

The dawn of day 8 smelled like the smoldering campfire from the night before. Roosevelt Elk slumbered in the meadow next to our tent town of cycle tourists in this remote corner of California. But as with every morning, it was time to move on.

MJ and I set out to hit another 70+ mile day to go beyond what “the book” suggested was the right stop… A KOA in Eureka. Yeah, not going to happen. Instead we decided to take advantage of the relatively tame afternoon portion and push to a campground in Fortuna that we’ve both stayed at… Him on last year’s PDX-SFO tour, me on the Climate RIde.

There’s a brew pub around the corner. No mystery here on why we chose this now.

A cool start, a chocolate milk and some rolling hills of some note got us through the morning. After deciding the book’s scenic route wawasting valuable beer time, we decided to stick with 101 north of Eureka and jammed into town ahead of schedule. A brief break by the side of the rode invited conversation with several passing bikers, including Keith, a SoCal tourist with impeccable and efficient gear. We were 20 miles away, so we pushed on.

Well, I did. MJ… mr. “I never get a flat and I never get rained on” got his first on-tour flat after 16 kajillion* miles. Meanwhile I am dropping the hammer (bike term) in my highest gear, breaking land speed records like a Lance on HGH. Only later do I notice the twin texts from MJ stating he had a flat, and that he had fixed said flat and was on the way. Great support team, eh?

After dropping out of warp 11 and gliding into camp, Keith rolled up as I was checking in. Through a quirk of private RV park math ($22 + $22 +$22 = $33 if three bikers share a tent site rather than share a tent site separately… Seems like string theory or quantum something whatsit to me) we figure Keith would hang with MJ and I. MJ came rolling in about 15 minutes later after getting to warp 76.

Back to Keith:

– plays viola in movies you have absolutely heard of… Titanic, Avatar, etc.

– went to the Eastman School of Music for a grad degree, which makes him an honorary Rochestarian in my mind (despite not knowing Nick Tahou’s – he gets a demerit for that).

– put up with our craziness while eating with us at the brewpub (and incidentally, paid for the whole thing, which was way too kind)

– has never seen The Wire and got an earful on why that needs to change

Eel River Brewery was aces again, but has the least hoppy IPA I have ever had. No complaints, just saying.

Shorter day tomorrow… We need to exorcise a bad day on this portion of MJs route last year. Day after we exorcise mine. Screw you Leggett!

MJ Tip of The Day:
You should always save your most 80s looking shorts for laundry day. Then embrace the look.

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*more than a thousand, less than a babillion

Don’t forget you can track this madness on a real live map at and also on Twitter.

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